Pop of Color: New York Fashion Week

Pop of Color: New York Fashion Week
ABOVE: Final touches for the Prism by Anna Laub show
All photos by Stephanie Brooks 

Posted: Wednesday October 16, 2013


Summery glamour was a recurring theme at the Mercedes-Benz Spring/Summer 2014 shows, held this fall in Manhattan. Below is a little taste of what the make-up teams were working on backstage: find out what inspired these looks and what products artists used to create them. And follow the links for coverage of fashion weeks in Portland, Ore. and Vancouver, British Columbia.


Arden Wohl

2013 New York Fashion Week Coverage: Arden WohlTime/Date: 7 p.m. Sept. 9, 2013
Location: The High Line Hotel
Key Make-up Artist: Nicky Whitten
Make-up: Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
Inspiration: Gustav Klimt’s paintings

Details: Inspired by the gilded paintings of Gustav Klimt, Nicky Whitten created a luxurious, regal look.

‘There is very minimal product on the skin. It’s about taking hypersaturation of gold and working it into the models,” Whitten said.

To prep the face, OCC Skin Conceal and OCC Tint: Tinted Moisturizer were applied. Whitten then created a gold headband, using a mixture of Crème Colour Concentrate in Icarus and Loose Colour Concentrate in Flawed painted across the forehead. Eyes were kept natural with Crème Colour Concentrate in Trick buffed onto the eyelids, followed by a coat of mascara. Color was added to the cheeks with a mixture of Matte Lip Tar in Mannequin and Kimber, out in spring/summer 2014. Lip Tar in Queen was applied to lips for a fresh, girly pout.

Insight: Before models hit the runway, Whitten buffed Crème Colour Concentrate in Icarus on to their knees and elbows for a doll-joint effect.


Calla

2013 New York Fashion Week Coverage: CallaTime/Date: 7 p.m. Sept. 7, 2013
Place: Milk Studios
Key Make-up Artist: Kabuki
Make-up: M.A.C.
Inspiration: Luxurious, beachy

Details: “It’s quite a lot of make-up that looks like it’s no make-up,” Kabuki joked backstage at Calla. With such a colorful collection walking down the runway, Kabuki decided to create a natural yet luxurious look on the models entirely with M.A.C. products. He started off by applying Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation on the skin and Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer under the eyes. Casual Colour Lip & Cheek Colour in Keep It Loose (limited edition) was pressed into cheeks and across the bridge of the nose. Paints in Bare Canvas was applied to eyelids along with a swipe of Eye Shadow in Copperplate under the bottom lashes. Chromagraphic Pencil from the 2010 Nudes collection was penciled onto the tear duct and water line areas. Kabuki skipped the mascara and instead brushed up the eyebrows with Brow Set. Lastly, lips were colored in with Velvet Tease lip pencil (available spring/summer 2014) for a natural yet modern finish.
   
Insight: “The clothing already tells quite a story, so I wanted to create the girl that would be wearing the clothes,” Kabuki said. “It’s a no make-up look, so we are utilizing make-up artist tricks and techniques to maximize texture on the skin.”







Diego Binetti

2013 New York Fashion Week Coverage: Diego BinettiTime/Date: 4 p.m. Sept. 9, 2013
Place: Studio 540
Key Make-up Artist: Daria Debiak
Make-up: Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
Inspiration: Beach girl

Details: Daria Debiak calls Crème Colour Concentrate in Discipline the hero of the look, due to its liberal application: buffed onto the sides of the face, eyes and cheeks for a sun-kissed feel. On the lips, Debiak used two new Lip Tars coming out this spring: Hollywood and Pleasure Model, mixed together. To add a surprise element to the look, Debiak switched to more of a nighttime vibe halfway through the runway show: “We [added] Kimber Lip Tar, which is a beautiful coral color, to transition her from day to night,” she said.

Insight: “No mascara, since she’s at the beach! She’s fabulous; she doesn’t need it,” Debiak said.















Jeremy Laing

2013 New York Fashion Week Coverage: Jeremy LaingTime/Date: 11 a.m. Sept. 8, 2013
Place: Pier 59 Studios
Key Make-up Artist: Serge Hodonou 
Make-up: M.A.C.
Inspiration: Surfer girl

Details: With Jeremy Laing describing his collection as “Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave,” key make-up artist Serge Hodonou was conscious of creating a natural look that wouldn’t take away from the bright, ’90s-inspired clothing.

Hodonou first prepped skin using Mineralize Charged Water Moisture Gel and Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer where needed. Lashes were curled and left bare while Creme Liner lined the upper lashes. Lipstick in Fashion Force, available spring/summer 2014, was tapped into the center of lip and blended out. The look was finished with a light dusting of Mineralize Skinfinish Natural across the face.

Insight: “When [Laing] told me his inspiration was a Malibu girl, I was thinking the girl that goes to the beach; she’s not just pretty but sporty,” Hodonou said.












Karen Walker

2013 New York Fashion Week Coverage: Karen WalkerTime/Date: 2 p.m. Sept. 9, 2013
Place: Pier 59 Studios
Key Make-up Artist: Benjamin Puckey
Make-up: Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
Inspiration: Hare Krishna meets Western style

Details: Designer Karen Walker envisioned models wearing fresh, dewy make-up with a pop of color. To get that pop, key make-up artist Benjamin Puckey applied Lip Tar Metallic in Electric Grandma, a bright apricot color, onto the cheeks and under the eyes. A highlighter was created by mixing Clear Lip Tar with Loose Colour Concentrates in Twirl and Iced and dabbing the mixture onto the bridge of the nose and cheeks for a 3-D effect. On the eyes, Puckey mixed Crème Colour Concentrate in Jonh Doe and Discipline to define the lid, and finished off the look with a swipe of Sephora Outrageous Volume Mascara. Lip Tar in Electric Grandma was used on the lips.

Insight: “[Walker] was inspired by how Hare Krishna followers wear clothes when they’re out on the streets,” Puckey said. “You’ll see them wear modern, Western-style clothing, mixed with a more Asian-influenced piece.”











Louise Goldin

2013 New York Fashion Week Coverage: Louise GoldinTime/Date: 1 p.m. Sept. 7, 2013
Location: Milk Studios
Key Make-up Artist: Hannah Murray
Make-up: M.A.C.
Inspiration: 1990s minimalism

Details: The look at Louise Goldin was a nod to the ’90s, with key artist Hannah Murray gleaning inspiration from fashion designer Helmut Lang and model Vanessa Paradis. Fresh skin was achieved using Mineralize Charged Water Moisture Gel applied lightly with fingertips, followed by Face and Body Foundation massaged into skin. Cream Colour Base in Pearl was pressed into cheeks as highlighter for a luminous look. Murray created a light sheen on the eyelid using Cream Colour Base in Hush on the center of the lid and tear duct. Penultimate Eye Liner was used to thinly define the lash line. To finish off the look, Murray added a deep brown lip to emphasize the ᾽90s inspiration. She got the graphic, bold lip by using Lip Pencil in Stripdown to define the shape and Cultivating Chic from the Spring ’14 Trend Forecast eye palette on the center of the lip.

Insight: “Louise has an amazing color palette, all the taupe and brown. I immediately thought of [creating] a lip in a slightly off color,” Murray said.


Prism by Anna Laub

2013 New York Fashion Week Coverage: Prism by Anna LaubTime/Date: 2:30 p.m. Sept. 7, 2013
Place: The Standard Le Bane 
Key Make-up Artist: Gregory Arlt
Make-up: M.A.C.
Inspiration: Helmut Newton photography

Details: The ambiance at Prism by Anna Laub was more pool party than runway show, with models lounging on the sun-drenched roof of The Standard in bold, 1950s-inspired swimsuits.  Key make-up artist Gregory Arlt imagined the bathing beauties with a handsome, almost masculine look featuring bold brows and strong cheekbones. To get the look, Arlt used Face and Body Foundation and Sculpt & Shape Powder to create matte highlights and contour on the cheeks and around the eyes. Eye Shadow in Shroom was dusted onto the lid, while eyebrows were emphasized using Veluxe Brow Liner. Arlt then created a modern geisha lip by using Casual Colour Lip & Cheek Colour in Out for Fun, a bright pop of coral concentrated in the center of the lip.

Insight: “[Laub] and I were inspired by Helmut Newton girls just out of the pool with wet hair and beautiful contouring,” Arlt said.


Venexiana

2013 New York Fashion Week Coverage: VenexianaTime/Date: 9 p.m. Sept. 7, 2013
Place: The Studio at Lincoln Center
Key Make-up Artist: Dani Fonseca
Make-up: Mehron
Inspiration: An enchanted island

Details: With this season’s Venexiana collection featuring a colorful array of dresses in turquoise, gold and blue, key make-up artist Dani Fonseca wanted to create a look just as vibrant as the gowns. “I walked into the showroom and all the dresses spoke to me in this enchanted, island feel,” Fonseca said.

Backstage, she started off by prepping skin with Celebré Pro HD Make-up and contouring the face with E.Y.E Powder in Fawn. Cheek Cream in Geranium was patted onto the cheeks. Next, Fonseca created a vivid eye using Celebré Precious Gem Powder in Aquamarine and INtense Pro Pressed Powder Pigment in Ocean Breeze for the inner corner of the eye, blended out. To create contrast, Celebré Precious Gem Powder in Ruby and E.Y.E Liner Pencil in Black were applied to the bottom of the eye for a theatrical feel. To finish off the eyes, E.Y.E Lashes in Feather were cut into several pieces and applied to the top lashes while E.Y.E Lashes in Full were applied to the bottom. Lips were painted with a mix of Glosstone in Clear and Precious Gem Celebré Powder in Ruby.

Insight: “This is different from past Venexiana shows, because we are introducing color and trying to step away from the intense smoky eyes. Instead we’re allowing the color to be the drama for this show,” Fonseca said.


 
For more 2013 fashion week coverage, click the links for Portland, Ore. and Vancouver, British Columbia

 

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