ABOVE: Final touches for the Prism by Anna Laub show
All photos by Stephanie Brooks
Posted: Wednesday October 16, 2013
Summery glamour was a recurring theme at the Mercedes-Benz
Spring/Summer 2014 shows, held this fall in Manhattan. Below is a little
taste of what the make-up teams were working on backstage: find out
what inspired these looks and what products artists used to create them.
And follow the links for coverage of fashion weeks in Portland, Ore. and Vancouver, British Columbia.
Time/Date: 7 p.m. Sept. 9, 2013 Location: The High Line Hotel Key Make-up Artist: Nicky Whitten Make-up: Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Inspiration: Gustav Klimt’s paintings
Details: Inspired by the gilded paintings of Gustav Klimt, Nicky Whitten created a luxurious, regal look.
is very minimal product on the skin. It’s about taking hypersaturation
of gold and working it into the models,” Whitten said.
the face, OCC Skin Conceal and OCC Tint: Tinted Moisturizer were
applied. Whitten then created a gold headband, using a mixture of Crème
Colour Concentrate in Icarus and Loose Colour Concentrate in Flawed
painted across the forehead. Eyes were kept natural with Crème Colour
Concentrate in Trick buffed onto the eyelids, followed by a coat of
mascara. Color was added to the cheeks with a mixture of Matte Lip Tar
in Mannequin and Kimber, out in spring/summer 2014. Lip Tar in Queen was
applied to lips for a fresh, girly pout.
models hit the runway, Whitten buffed Crème Colour Concentrate in
Icarus on to their knees and elbows for a doll-joint effect.
Details: “It’s quite a lot of make-up that looks like it’s no make-up,” Kabuki
joked backstage at Calla. With such a colorful collection walking down
the runway, Kabuki decided to create a natural yet luxurious look on the
models entirely with M.A.C. products. He started off by applying
Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation on the skin and Studio Finish SPF 35
Concealer under the eyes. Casual Colour Lip & Cheek Colour in Keep
It Loose (limited edition) was pressed into cheeks and across the bridge
of the nose. Paints in Bare Canvas was applied to eyelids along with a
swipe of Eye Shadow in Copperplate under the bottom lashes.
Chromagraphic Pencil from the 2010 Nudes collection was penciled onto
the tear duct and water line areas. Kabuki skipped the mascara and
instead brushed up the eyebrows with Brow Set. Lastly, lips were colored
in with Velvet Tease lip pencil (available spring/summer 2014) for a
natural yet modern finish.
Insight: “The clothing
already tells quite a story, so I wanted to create the girl that would
be wearing the clothes,” Kabuki said. “It’s a no make-up look, so we are
utilizing make-up artist tricks and techniques to maximize texture on
Details: Daria Debiak calls Crème Colour Concentrate in Discipline the hero of
the look, due to its liberal application: buffed onto the sides of the
face, eyes and cheeks for a sun-kissed feel. On the lips, Debiak used
two new Lip Tars coming out this spring: Hollywood and Pleasure Model,
mixed together. To add a surprise element to the look, Debiak switched
to more of a nighttime vibe halfway through the runway show: “We [added]
Kimber Lip Tar, which is a beautiful coral color, to transition her
from day to night,” she said.
Insight: “No mascara, since she’s at the beach! She’s fabulous; she doesn’t need it,” Debiak said.
Details: With Jeremy Laing describing his collection as “Malibu Beach Barbie
goes to a rave,” key make-up artist Serge Hodonou was conscious of
creating a natural look that wouldn’t take away from the bright,
Hodonou first prepped skin using
Mineralize Charged Water Moisture Gel and Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer
where needed. Lashes were curled and left bare while Creme Liner lined
the upper lashes. Lipstick in Fashion Force, available spring/summer
2014, was tapped into the center of lip and blended out. The look was
finished with a light dusting of Mineralize Skinfinish Natural across
Insight: “When [Laing] told me his inspiration
was a Malibu girl, I was thinking the girl that goes to the beach; she’s
not just pretty but sporty,” Hodonou said.
Time/Date: 2 p.m. Sept. 9, 2013 Place: Pier 59 Studios Key Make-up Artist: Benjamin Puckey Make-up: Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Inspiration: Hare Krishna meets Western style
Details: Designer Karen Walker envisioned models wearing fresh, dewy make-up
with a pop of color. To get that pop, key make-up artist Benjamin Puckey
applied Lip Tar Metallic in Electric Grandma, a bright apricot color,
onto the cheeks and under the eyes. A highlighter was created by mixing
Clear Lip Tar with Loose Colour Concentrates in Twirl and Iced and
dabbing the mixture onto the bridge of the nose and cheeks for a 3-D
effect. On the eyes, Puckey mixed Crème Colour Concentrate in Jonh Doe
and Discipline to define the lid, and finished off the look with a swipe
of Sephora Outrageous Volume Mascara. Lip Tar in Electric Grandma was
used on the lips.
Insight: “[Walker] was inspired by how
Hare Krishna followers wear clothes when they’re out on the streets,”
Puckey said. “You’ll see them wear modern, Western-style clothing, mixed
with a more Asian-influenced piece.”
Details: The look at Louise Goldin was a nod to the ’90s, with key artist Hannah
Murray gleaning inspiration from fashion designer Helmut Lang and model
Vanessa Paradis. Fresh skin was achieved using Mineralize Charged Water
Moisture Gel applied lightly with fingertips, followed by Face and Body
Foundation massaged into skin. Cream Colour Base in Pearl was pressed
into cheeks as highlighter for a luminous look. Murray created a light
sheen on the eyelid using Cream Colour Base in Hush on the center of the
lid and tear duct. Penultimate Eye Liner was used to thinly define the
lash line. To finish off the look, Murray added a deep brown lip to
emphasize the ᾽90s inspiration. She got the graphic, bold lip by using
Lip Pencil in Stripdown to define the shape and Cultivating Chic from
the Spring ’14 Trend Forecast eye palette on the center of the lip.
Insight: “Louise has an amazing color palette, all the taupe and brown. I
immediately thought of [creating] a lip in a slightly off color,” Murray
Prism by Anna Laub
Time/Date: 2:30 p.m. Sept. 7, 2013 Place: The Standard Le Bane Key Make-up Artist: Gregory Arlt Make-up: M.A.C. Inspiration: Helmut Newton photography
Details: The ambiance at Prism by Anna Laub was more pool party than runway
show, with models lounging on the sun-drenched roof of The Standard in
bold, 1950s-inspired swimsuits. Key make-up artist Gregory Arlt
imagined the bathing beauties with a handsome, almost masculine look
featuring bold brows and strong cheekbones. To get the look, Arlt used
Face and Body Foundation and Sculpt & Shape Powder to create matte
highlights and contour on the cheeks and around the eyes. Eye Shadow in
Shroom was dusted onto the lid, while eyebrows were emphasized using
Veluxe Brow Liner. Arlt then created a modern geisha lip by using Casual
Colour Lip & Cheek Colour in Out for Fun, a bright pop of coral
concentrated in the center of the lip.
Insight: “[Laub] and I were inspired by Helmut Newton girls just out of the pool with wet hair and beautiful contouring,” Arlt said.
Time/Date: 9 p.m. Sept. 7, 2013 Place: The Studio at Lincoln Center Key Make-up Artist: Dani Fonseca Make-up: Mehron Inspiration: An enchanted island
Details: With this season’s Venexiana collection featuring a colorful array of
dresses in turquoise, gold and blue, key make-up artist Dani Fonseca
wanted to create a look just as vibrant as the gowns. “I walked into the
showroom and all the dresses spoke to me in this enchanted, island
feel,” Fonseca said.
Backstage, she started off by prepping skin
with Celebré Pro HD Make-up and contouring the face with E.Y.E Powder
in Fawn. Cheek Cream in Geranium was patted onto the cheeks. Next,
Fonseca created a vivid eye using Celebré Precious Gem Powder in
Aquamarine and INtense Pro Pressed Powder Pigment in Ocean Breeze for
the inner corner of the eye, blended out. To create contrast, Celebré
Precious Gem Powder in Ruby and E.Y.E Liner Pencil in Black were applied
to the bottom of the eye for a theatrical feel. To finish off the eyes,
E.Y.E Lashes in Feather were cut into several pieces and applied to the
top lashes while E.Y.E Lashes in Full were applied to the bottom. Lips
were painted with a mix of Glosstone in Clear and Precious Gem Celebré
Powder in Ruby.
Insight: “This is different from past
Venexiana shows, because we are introducing color and trying to step
away from the intense smoky eyes. Instead we’re allowing the color to be
the drama for this show,” Fonseca said.
London-based make-up artist Angela Holthuis and photographer Izabela Habur set a challenge for themselves: Habur
asked Holthuis, a fashion pro, to create “a small story with bold looks
within a small time frame, to test out how far we [could] push
ourselves creatively,” Holthuis said.
Make-Up Artist magazine is now accepting student competition
applications for the 2009 Los Angeles International Make-Up Artist
Trade Show. The themes for this year are Gothic and X-Men Mutants. The competition is open to students of a recognized make-up school and
to those who graduated 12 months prior to the competition. Make-Up Artist will only accept competition entries postmarked by May 22, 2009.
If you like Prescriptives products, you’d better stock up while you
can: On Sept. 17, Estée Lauder Companies announced it will stop
production and global wholesale distribution of the brand by Jan. 31,
2010. The brand will still be sold online at www.prescriptives.com
while inventory lasts.