Our writer, Meghan Hilliard, went backstage at Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Week’s New York Spring/Summer 2012 Shows and previewed the make-up looks
for the season. See Web-exclusive highlights from the shows below. For
more fashion week coverage, read Issue 93 of Make-Up Artist, on sale now.
Designer: Gretchen Jones Time/Date: 3 p.m. Sept. 8 Location: Drive In Studios Key Make-up Artist: Kristi Matamoros for Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
Inspiration: A young girl on the run, exaggerated rawness
Details: Face was primed with moisturizer and spot-concealed; foundation and
powder were not used. OCC Skin Airbrush Makeup in Pris was patted onto
cheekbones and down the bridge of the nose by hand for a highlighting
effect, while eyes and cheeks were left completely bare. Brows were
slightly groomed and filled in. OCC Lip Tar in Demure was precisely
applied with a lip brush. The lip was set with OCC Loose Colour
Concentrate in Cherry Bomb to tone down the gloss but amplify the color.
"We want this girl to look like the most she's doing is throwing on a
bright pink lip, and then she's out the door," said Matamoros.
Designer: Bess Time/Date: 3 p.m. Sept. 8 Location: 292 Lafayette Street Key Make-up Artist: Emily Ansel for Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
Inspiration: Japanese pop culture
Details: On women and men, foundation was applied only where needed. OCC Lip Tar
in Trollop was applied to the cheeks using a blush brush, with color
concentrated on the apples of the cheeks for a baby-doll effect. Female
models received false eyelashes in various colors for a cartoon feel.
OCC Lip Tar in Trick was used on the lips for a moist, nude look. On the
men, Ansel mixed OCC Lip Tar in Clear with various OCC Loose Colour
Concentrates to create colorful vertical lines down the center of their
foreheads. Ansel patted OCC Cosmetic Glitter in Gold into those lines
with a medium flat brush to add sparkle.
Inspiration: Sophisticated and glamorous without looking too made-up
Details: This monochromatic look featured terracotta and bronze emphasizing the
eyes and cheekbones. M.A.C. Eye Shadow in Cup of Joe (working name,
available spring/summer 2012) was used on the eyelids with M.A.C. Cream
Colour Base in Improper Copper in the crease; M.A.C. Brow Set in Clear
was used on the lashes and eyes were lined with M.A.C. Eye Kohl in Costa
Riche on the waterline. Cup of Joe and M.A.C. Lip Erase in Pale were
used on cheekbones to "create a plastic skin feel." Pica gave the models
a creamy foundation. "We wanted them to look very 'wow' and effective
without the heavy lashes and lips," Pica said. "They're still going to
look very impressive and strong."
Designer: Doo.Ri Time/Date: 2:45 p.m. Sept. 9 Location: Eyebeam Key Make-up Artist: Tom Pecheux for M.A.C.
Inspiration: Glowing goddess created with use of texture
Details: Pecheux focused on a neutral palette and a range of matte and metallic
textures to complement Doo.Ri's collection of colorful patterns and
prints. M.A.C. Metal-X Eye Shadow in Fusion Gold (available Dec. 26-Jan.
29) was used on both the skin and the eyes. The product was applied to
the entire lid up to the brow bone and into the eyebrow. A matte peach
color was used as a contour with Fusion Gold as a highlight on the
cheekbone and buffed into the temples. The lips were nude, using M.A.C.
Lipstick in Innocence Beware! (available spring/summer 2012). The
artists skipped mascara. "Not because I wanted to be lazy," Pecheux
said, laughing. "We just wanted [the models] to look like goddesses."
Designer: Kati Stern Venexiana Time/Date: 9 p.m. Sept. 10 Location: The Studio at Lincoln Center Key Make-up Artist: DeShawn Hatcher for Becca Cosmetics
Inspiration: '20s-'30s retro vibe mixed with 2012
Details: Becca Resurfacing Primer was applied to the T-zone, followed by
concealer where needed and Becca Mineral Powder Foundation over the
entire face. Eyes were "semi-smoky" using the darkest shades from Becca
eye-shadow palettes in Lost Weekend and Prairie Moon on the outer corner
of the eyes only. Spiky lashes were used on the top and bottom lash
lines, and eyes were lined in black. Becca Lip & Cheek Crème in
Petal was applied to the apples of the cheeks for a wash of coral color.
Petal was also dabbed onto the center of the lips along with Becca
Glossy Lip Tint in Frappe.
Designer: Sophie Theallet Time/Date: 5 p.m. Sept. 13 Place: Milk Studios Key Make-up Artist: Tom Pecheux for M.A.C.
Inspiration: French actress Romy Schneider in the 1969 movie La piscine (The Swimming Pool).
Details: Foundation and concealer were applied with a fluffy brush and set with
M.A.C. Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder. M.A.C. Mineralize
Skinfinish Natural Bronzer in Give Me Sun! was applied heavily to the
high points of the face and a slight dab of tinted body oil (currently
being tested for a potential spring/summer 2012 launch) was added to the
cheekbones to intensify the golden look. The eyes were colored a deep
metallic copper by blending M.A.C. Extra Dimension Eye Shadow in Havana
and Sweet Heat (available spring/summer 2012) with M.A.C. Metal-X in
Venetian Tarnish. Dark-brown liner applied to the entire top and bottom
lash lines and M.A.C. Zoom Lash in Zoomblack completed the eyes. Lips
were covered in M.A.C. Tendertone Lip Balm SPF 12 in Hush Hush
(available in spring/summer 2012).
Details: Eyes are the focus of this look with rough, disheveled brows. Lids were
prepped with OCC Primer mixed with OCC Loose Colour Concentrate in
Ironic for a metallic-silver cream base and OCC Loose Colour Concentrate
in Distortion was placed on top from the lash line through the crease
and underneath the eye for a smoky look. OCC Cosmetic Glitter in
Mirrorball finished the look. Nine silver crystals were applied randomly
around the left eye to create a subtle half-mask. Black mascara was
applied heavily to top lashes. Skin was simple with light foundation and
concealer where needed; cheeks were contoured for depth. OCC Lip Tar in
Interlace was used on the lip.
London-based make-up artist Angela Holthuis and photographer Izabela Habur set a challenge for themselves: Habur
asked Holthuis, a fashion pro, to create “a small story with bold looks
within a small time frame, to test out how far we [could] push
ourselves creatively,” Holthuis said.
Make-Up Artist magazine is now accepting student competition
applications for the 2009 Los Angeles International Make-Up Artist
Trade Show. The themes for this year are Gothic and X-Men Mutants. The competition is open to students of a recognized make-up school and
to those who graduated 12 months prior to the competition. Make-Up Artist will only accept competition entries postmarked by May 22, 2009.
If you like Prescriptives products, you’d better stock up while you
can: On Sept. 17, Estée Lauder Companies announced it will stop
production and global wholesale distribution of the brand by Jan. 31,
2010. The brand will still be sold online at www.prescriptives.com
while inventory lasts.