Troy Kendal: The Secret to Beautiful, Modern Make-up
Troy Kendal: The Secret to Beautiful, Modern Make-up
Courtesy Troy Kendal
ABOVE: Troy Kendal; BELOW: Make-up and photo by Troy Kendal/Model: Suellen

Basic Beauty, Step by Step
© Troy Kendal

My hope is that the following detailed information will help millions of women and artists with their make-up techniques, and help them to realize the value and importance that taking an interest in their own, creative ways of self -expression, can be quite empowering:

Maximizing your skin is the most important part of a good make-up application. In my years of experience, women do not take enough interest or time in this step alone. So, please make a continuous effort to improve the overall look of the skin by experimenting with various products, combined with the following techniques to help you achieve this specific goal.

Massage a tiny amount of foundation (about half the size of a pea) with the tip of the fingers to neutralize any skin discoloration (redness, darkness, and blemishes). Focus down the center of the face for an even, smooth finish. It is important to understand that when used in small amounts, foundation can be layered with 2 to 5 layers, depending on the type of foundation product used. It does not need to be used all over the face like a mask. This is a common misconception. Foundation base should not be topical. After all discoloration has been neutralized and even coverage has been achieved down the center of the face and the application looks balanced, you have achieved the goal.

Highlighting around the eyes is a priority, as it is a very effective way to create contrast so that your eye color and pupil look richer, thereby giving an overall stronger impact visually. Various products can be used to achieve this look: a light foundation, shadow based concealers, specific products designed for highlighting and/or light powder.

Brows play a very important role in basic beauty. Consider brow shaping and maintenance like basic grooming. Always take into consideration—when determining the proper brow design—the natural way your brow grows. This will greatly enhance the ease of maintenance. I recommend defining your brow with either a brow pencil or powder one shade darker than the natural brow color. If you have a dark brow already, match the color tone. The goal is to define by creating a solid brow where the skin cannot be seen through the individual hair.

Eyeliner is a great make-up product. It defines the eye and can be used subtle or strong. Black, used softly, is my personal preference and recommendation. A good technique all women can rely on when using eyeliner is by applying it on the outside top 1/4 of the eye, then blending out with the finger, and reapplying for definition, extending darkness to the very corner where top and bottom of the eye connect. And, on the lower inside rim of the eye, keeping the concentration of darkness on the outside corner. Defining the inside point of the eye is also important and is rarely focused on as a basic. It is important to always blend this area with you finger. I recommend carrying eyeliner in your bag with the lip products you are wearing, as it is a basic item that should be reapplied when touching up your make-up. Good make-up wears well if applied correctly and this is how you achieve the smoky, sexy eye you often see in magazines, on celebrities, and on the runways. (The look is achieved and created by wearing it over time, like a good patina on furniture.)

Firstly, I recommend trying a lash curler before applying mascara to see the effect it creates. Mascara is often used incorrectly. When applying mascara, lift the eyelid slightly and beginning at the very root of the lash—concentrate on the very last lashes on the outside corner of the eye—layer a few coats (same as eye-lining). This concentration of darkness creates a great impact and adds a lift to the entire look of the eye. Then apply to the rest of the top lash using one or two coats.

To achieve a perfect, natural and contemporary look, I recommend neutralizing the natural lip color with a small amount of base prior to your lip color application. Concealers can also be used for this look, however they are heavier and must be very well blended. This technique will make lip color true to what you see in the tube and really helps create the soft, nude lip you see everywhere. Also, the nice thing about this technique is that all other colors harmonize perfectly, and it helps stronger colors be much more wearable.

I have always said, "A woman can never have enough lip glosses." They come in many beautiful colors and can enhance the freshness of any look. And, they can be found at very reasonable prices.

Concealers are often over used, used in the wrong places, and with the wrong application techniques. Foundation, highlighters, and powders are enough for most women. However, if you personally have concerns that include dark, under eye shadows, and/or blemishes, then experimenting to find a concealer that works best for you is recommended. Thicker concealers are available and can be used with a concealer brush, which help them go on smooth, focusing on the specific problem area. Both heavier and lighter concealers can be applied with the finger tip and gently patted on.

Powder, in my experience, is overused and applied incorrectly; it can easily ruin a nice make-up application. However, if used correctly, it can make the skin look extremely soft and enhance the longevity of your make-up. I have the best result when the powder is applied with a large flat fabric powder puff dipped in transparent loose powder. First, tap the fabric puff lightly, removing any excess powder. Press with pressure on the skin in quarter sections at a time. This absorbs any excess moisture, applies a very light, sheer amount of powder, and softens and seals in all the make-up used on the skin. Lastly, I generally do not recommend powder under the eyes.